Alila Jabal Akhdar (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
I found the perfect mountain getaway in the Sultanate of Oman. In the wake of my recent Himalayan retreat in the Kingdom of Bhutan, I was feeling inspired to explore the mountains back home in Oman. So last month my family and I headed 2,000 metres above sea level to stay at Alila Jabal Akhdar — a five-star eco-resort perched on the edge of a breathtaking gorge in the Al Hajar Mountains.
Poolside in paradise (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
When my family and I pulled into the remote 86-room resort (we were guests of the hotel), we were immediately struck by how seamlessly the hotel’s flat-topped stone buildings — hewed from local ophiolite rock — blend into the surrounding mountains. The hotel’s harmonious design reflects the natural splendor of the region. Though Jabal Akhdar, which means “Green Mountain” in Arabic, is just a two hour drive from Muscat, the all-consuming quiet and geological grandeur of its rugged geography will make you feel like you’ve landed on a different planet — and left all of your troubles far behind.
Fireplace at Alila (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Since I’ve been living and teaching in the Middle East for several years, I often find myself missing the dramatic change of seasons back home in New York. So to be greeted by an enormous fireplace and the pine-wooden fragrance of frankincense in the lobby was the perfect winter welcome. While many visitors from the Gulf visit Jabal Akhdar in the summer to retreat from the punishing heat, the area is slowly becoming a popular winter destination for regional and international tourists alike — who wish to catch a rare glimpse of Oman’s frozen wadis and snow-capped peaks.
Enjoying the view (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
Considered the fruit bowl of Oman, Jabal Akhdar is the perfect place to go hiking through tranquil valleys dotted with orchards of walnut, pomegranate, almond, juniper, and apricot trees. The region is known for its cultivation of damask roses used in the production of Omani rose water — a beloved staple of Omani cooking, perfume, and medicine. In the lobby of Alila, roses wrought in metal latticework — blossoming from floor-to-ceiling — pay homage to region’s fabled flower.
Home sweet home (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
Fortress-like doors, Omani treasure chests, and pottery from Bahla are just a few of the local architectural accents and craft designs that decorate the interior of the resort’s hallways and rooms. Hand-painted juniper branches — resembling those surrounding the hotel — adorn the walls. Best of all, the property features a falaj water system, showcasing Oman’s traditional system of irrigation. All of the rooms and two villas at Alila have mesmerizing mountain views of the steep canyon below. While many hotels in the Gulf tend to go overboard on opulence, Alila Jabal Akhdar strikes the perfect balance between luxury comfort and rustic charm.
Villa living room (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
All of this understated luxury has been crafted with the environment in mind. Alila is a regional leader in sustainable development and environmentally-friendly design — it was the first LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) certified project in the Sultanate of Oman. Alila’s integration of natural conservation, local building techniques, and energy efficiency is a welcome model for environmental standards in tourism and construction in the Middle East.
Sunrise espresso (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
If you visit Alila, start off your morning with a leisurely dip in the heated jacuzzi or infinity pool — and an espresso on the terrace to enjoy the fresh, crisp air. Gazing down at the blush of morning gracing the canyon folds, you’ll find it easy to meditate on nature’s beauty — while clouds, like mystical tumbleweeds, roll through the valley.
Yoga, anyone? (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
For those who prefer a more formal meditation to start their morning, there’s a large wooden platform overlooking the gorge. Since I like to do yoga and tai chi in unusual landscapes and locales, I couldn’t help but feel inspired by the serene setting to salute the rising sun. Regular yoga classes are complimentary for guests, and private yoga lessons are available upon request.
Breakfast is served (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Before heading out to explore nearby villages, enjoy a healthy and hearty breakfast at Juniper Restaurant — where all of the resort’s meals are served. Try the shak shoukh (Arabic-style scrambled eggs with tomatoes, onions, and cumin), and power up on nuts and berries to fuel a full day of sight-seeing.
Power up (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Since Alila is nestled in the cultural and historical heartland of Oman, it’s a convenient base for exploring medieval fortresses, castles, mosques, and souqs in Al Hamra, Bahla, and Nizwa. If your stay includes a Friday, don’t miss the early morning animal auction in Nizwa — where local farmers sell goats, cows, and sheep. You can also shop for Bedouin silver jewelery, local crafts, spices, and dried limes in the souq. Nizwa, known as “The Pearl of Islam,” was once the capital of Oman and an esteemed center for Islamic learning and art.
Exploring Misfat Al Abriyeen (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
If you’re in the mood to explore a local mountain village, visit picturesque Misfat Al Abriyeen — where you can wander down narrow alleyways to admire medieval houses built into the rock face and an extensive falaj system used to irrigate the oasis below. After descending through several agricultural terraces lush with bananas, papayas, pomegranates, and mangoes, stop for some cardamom coffee and dates at Misfah Old House.
Coffee stop (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
For an arduous hike, you can try climbing to the peak of Jabal Shams, Oman’s tallest mountain. Set off on the “Rim Walk” to view Wadi Nakhr — Oman’s Grand Canyon — from many different angles. Be sure to make friends with local villagers along the way — not to mention any long-haired goats that might cross your path.
Jabal Shams (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
After a long day of exploring, you’ll need to retreat to the spa at Alila — designed to evoke a traditional Omani village — for a restorative massage (their All Alila Living products are top-notch). Afterwards, substitute clouds in the steam room for the clouds outside your window. Sink into your room’s marble bathtub to soak in silence and serenity. Later, at dinner, kick off your meal with tiger prawns wrapped in kanafeh, a Middle Eastern pastry dough, with pepper puree, smoked almonds, and pomegranate honey — along with the sumptuous mezze platter (with pumpkin hummus!). Most importantly, don’t forget to step out onto the terrace after dessert and admire the stars.
Soak in serenity (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
When most people think of the Persian Gulf, they picture camels and dunes — not hikers and mountains. If you retreat into nature with a stay at Alila Jabal Akhdar, you’ll experience a different version of the region than the one-dimensional image presented in the news. From its unspoiled coast to its majestic peaks, the Sultanate of Oman is a special oasis of peace. So come relax at this remote mountain hideaway — this holistic haven — and watch your worries, like the clouds, float away.
Pure peace (Photo: Robert O'Dell)
