Category Archives: Blog

It was a delight to speak today at Cambridge University on Omani literature at the Gender and Identity in the Gulf: Cultural Constructions and Representations Conference of the Gulf Research Centre. Many thanks to the organizers who made it all possible!

Happy birthday to the sweet heartbeat at my feet! I enjoyed a quiet day at home yesterday in the Sultanate of Oman celebrating Anubis’ birth and fourteen years of growing old together! Lots of snuggles and treats!

And the award for cutest Mongolian baby wrestler goes to…this little guy! A delight to celebrate Naadam in Mongolia!

This spring in the Sultanate of Oman, the seemingly impossible happened – a cast of expats and Omanis put on the first performance of Our Town in the Middle East. While directing this intrepid cast of mostly ​university ​students and teachers and performing the central role of Emily Webb, I was forced to contemplate the relevance of the play’s timeless themes, and the significance of performing this American classic on the Arabian Peninsula.

The actors in our staging of Our Town in Oman this spring hailed from towns around the globe — the Sultanate of Oman, the United States, Somalia, India, Great Britain, Holland, Ukraine, and beyond. To represent this diversity, I posted color photographs of “our towns” on the walls of the performance space like postcards, to bring together our far-flung geographies – from the desert dunes of Oman to the bombed-out buildings of Donestsk – as we tried to bring this masterpiece to life in Muscat. Stay tuned for more on this historic theatrical event that we staged in the Arabian Gulf…

If you visit Musandam to enjoy the northern fjords of the Sultanate of Oman, I recommend staying at Atana Musandam or Atana Khasab. I enjoyed a stay at Atana Musandam, but journeyed just a few minutes down the road one night at sunset to dine at Atana Khasab with a phenomenal panoramic view of the Musandam shorline. Atana Musandam is a brand new hotel — and definitely the nicest one in the area. The entire property is intended to resemble a traditional Omani village — from the falaj irrigation system to the colorfully painted wooden beams of the restaurant. The tranquil atmosphere of the hotel makes it the ideal place to unwind and rejuvenate — either in the infinity pool or on your own private balcony. If you have a family, however, I would recommend Atana Khasab for the larger pool and distinct family feel. Atana means “come to us” in Arabic — and that’s just what you should do if you find yourself visiting the northern tip of the Sultanate of Oman.

I passed by this lovely blue yurt (ger) near my home today on my way to get bimimbop — Ulaanbaatar’s awesome!

I enjoyed swimming & snorkeling through the majestic fjords of Musandam in northern Oman — turquoise tranquility!

I was drawn to this dolphin weaving through the fjords of Musandam, its arch a mini-mountain rising from the water…

I boarded this dhow in Khasab to go dolphin watching and swimming in the fjords of Musandam in northern Oman…

This spring, I had the chance to enjoy a serene stay at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara while doing research in southern Oman. From its stunning beach (where guests swim with dolphins) to the quiet luxury of its pool villas, the hotel is without a doubt the best accommodation available along the southern coast of Dhofar.

Desperately in need of some rest and relaxation, my friend and I booked a pool villa to unwind in the comfort of privacy and quiet. Upon entering our pool villa, we were delighted (and surprised) to be treated to a relaxing complimentary foot massage — the perfect way to begin our stay. In addition to the inviting striped couch in the living room, we also had multiple lounging options for relaxing outside near our private pool.

The red and white pillows stationed around the pool add a subtle Middle Eastern touch. We used these cozy pillow platforms to read and snooze after cooling off in the pool. The private pool can be entered from the living room on one side or the bathroom on the other — so you can take a dip and then directly hop in the shower or tub.

As you can see, the secluded privacy of the pool is ideal for families and covered Muslim women who do not feel comfortable wearing revealing swimwear in front of non-relatives (the pool villas were likely designed with that in mind). For venturing out of the villa to head towards the beach or infinity pool, old-fashioned blue metallic bikes (shipped from the United States) are provided for rides under the property’s towering palms.

Since I could not ride a bike due to an injury, I instead whirled to the infinity pool each day for a swim and snack. The stunning infinity pool that stretches all the way to the beach is the centerpiece of the sparking white hotel buildings — and the restaurants surrounding it got our taste buds whirling too.

From thin-crust poolside pizzas to a magnificent (and large) mezze platter, the menu of the beach cafe Al Mina (below) next to the pool is filled with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean culinary treasures. I had been told by a local friend before our stay that the food at Anantara was fairly priced, and I was relieved and glad to find she was right — we could have our fill and not worry about overspending.

The breakfast buffet — an impressive display of international fare — is also served poolside at Sakalan Restaurant. In addition to the enormous selection of breakfast cuisines (from Oman, Lebanon, India, Japan, Europe, and the U.S.A., to name a few), there is also a menu from which you can order special breakfast dishes and drinks.

I ordered the Eggs Florentine from the brunch menu, and was not disappointed. I liked it so much that I ordered it again the next day to fuel up on protein before heading out for another long, fun-filled day at the beach. From breakfast to dinner, we were pleased with the culinary offerings of the hotel. We especially enjoyed feasting on Thai food (pad thai along with a sumptuous vegetarian Vietnamese appetizer platter) at Mekong — an elegant restaurant on the property that specializes in Asian cuisine from countries bordering the Mekong River.

After powering up each morning with a hearty breakfast, I hit the beach to go look for dolphins (one dolphin pod stayed near the beach for a good hour while I swam), enjoy a long sand stroll, and collect unique shells. After communing with nature in the strong turquoise waves each morning (the summer monsoon was beginning to brew), I spent my afternoons swimming, bobbing, and floating in the infinity pool. It was just what the doctor ordered.

While it was tempting to spend all of our time on the grounds of the hotel, we pushed ourselves to go out and explore Dhofar in between meals and swims. Fortunately, Al Baleed Archaeological Park sits literally right next to the hotel. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it contains sprawling archaeological ruins (including those of the grand mosque and citadel) in addition to the Museum of Frankincense Land — a slick, modern museum which documents Oman’s history. Al Baleed Resort by Anantara opened just several months ago — and from what I can tell, they are already doing everything right. We were greatly impressed by the high quality of the service, the heavenly vision of the grounds, and the welcoming luxury and comfort of the pool villa. I was grateful to enjoy this special slice of paradise in the Sultanate of Oman — and can’t wait to return one day soon.

I got caught in this camel jam in Dhofar while cruising towards the Yemeni border to explore this stunning beach…

I got dressed in these traditional clothes (that match the couch and curtains) while visiting this Omani family in southern Oman.

While doing research in Salalah in southern Oman near the Yemeni border, I visited the ancient port of Khor Rori / Sumhuram (4th century BCE to the 5th century CE). The ruins of Khor Rori (Sumhuram)​ ​–​ ​which are about a 40 minute drive from the city center — overlook a breathtaking harbor and excavations there are ongoing.

While doing research in Salalah in the south of Oman near the Yemeni border, I visited the archaeological ruins of Al Baleed (8th century to 16th century AD). The archaeological park of Al Baleed was directly next to my hotel (Anantara) — so at sunset, my friend and I took a lovely golf cart ride around this enormous site on the sea.

The park is also host to the “Museum of the Frankincense Land” dedicated to the history of Oman (well-curated, high quality, no photos allowed). If you visit Salalah, definitely plan a visit to these impressive ruins and the adjacent museum.