Category Archives: Blog

After weeks on the road in remote areas of Mongolia far from the capital (had to take a flight to even start our epic research journey), we returned to the capital and the comforts of bougie life in Ulaanbaatar.

I visited calligraphers to help design my new tattoos–and walked away with three new unique designs for my return to New Haven.

I also went shopping and bought a number of t-shirts with Mongolian calligraphy on them–having been immersed in Mongolian on the road, it was a way to take those memories back home with me in fashion. I survived on the road on instant ramen noodles (and often without showering), so it felt wonderful to eat at my favorite restaurants in the capital and indulge in gourmet coffee after weeks of Nescafe!

I had a chance to explore Kazakh fashion in Mongolia during Naadam while doing research this summer as a field-research fellow for the American Center of Mongolian Studies. Enjoy these images filled with bold colors and delightful designs! Everyone I asked was very kind and generous in letting me take photos to share their colorful fashions for the big summer holiday. Enjoy!

Here are some photos from Naadam activities in Mongolia–so fun to play games on the steppe! Wish I could share more n but have been on the road in remote places without internet!

What an adventure it was to drive all the way to Mongolia’s border with Russia and China. Many attempt it and don’t make it–getting there requires a blessing of fates. You need the right vehicle (certain Russian buses are preferred), a talented driver, and the weather on your side.

We awoke very early in our yurt to sunshine–relieved and grateful to have the weather on our side. After packing up our yurt and taking part in some daily morning rituals, we jumped in the car–all pumped to try and make it to the shrine on the top of the mountain range on the border.

We encountered many bumps on the “road” along the way, and made sure to hold on tight to prevent our bodies bumping against the door, dashboard, or car seats. We took a few breaks to take photos and drink in the view as the mountains got closer and closer as we headed towards Siberia.

I was lucky that my Mongolian colleagues had such a deep appreciation of nature–it felt great to all drink in the natural beauty and notice each detail as we made our pilgrimage to the shrine.

When we reached the shrine, we witnessed pilgrims before us doing rituals at the shrine and some were dressed in traditional dress. We took care of our individual needs at the shrine (some prayed, some threw milk, some circumambulated), and then headed towards the glacial highway to our right on foot.

This mountain range, called the Five Saints in Mongolia, features Mongolia’s highest point–4374 meters above sea level. Because it is so hard to reach, Mongolia, Russia, and China have agreed not to even bother trying to install a border marker or station where their borders meet.

I hadn’t packed a heavy winter jacket (hello Siberia, brrr!), so I wore about seven thick layers. I had on multiple sweaters and pairs of pants. As we walked towards the glacial highway, the temperature began to rise and I began to bake in my layers. When I finally sat down to drink in the view, I began peeling off my outer layers one by one.

As we got closer to the glacial highway, we all went in our separate directions to commune with nature in our own special way (and yes, I even did tai chi while I was there, facing the humbling mountain peaks). After everyone’s nature needs had been met, we nibbled on some snacks, and then hopped back in the car to continue our epic adventure. We left the Five Saints as proud and joyful pilgrims, having reached a sacred site that is so often off-limits to those who attempt to reach it.

As part of our research this summer in Mongolia, my Mongolian colleagues and I visited this Buddhist temple in a yurt.

We peeked inside of the temple and then went to another nearby yurt to meet with some very young monks.

The young monks were studying Tibetan, and they also chanted Buddhist texts in Tibetan for us–it was a very unique and special start to our morning on the steppe.

We noticed some nomads cutting and gathering grass for the winter in Mongolia and stopped to ask them about the process. They were kind to educate us about how they ready for winter–to make sure their animals will have enough to eat through the season.

We encountered so many stunning landscapes on our research trip this summer in Mongolia–including this lake while we were off-roading.

It was very windy on the lake (hard to take a photo)–we took in the refreshing breeze then hopped back in the car to our next destination.

We were fortunate to sleep in so many different yurts on our field-research trip in Mongolia this summer. Always such a delight to wake up in a yurt–but it’s not all fun and games for the Mongolians who actually live in yurts.

This summer, I was fortunate to watch the process of drying curd–it has to be covered, of course, to prevent insects from eating it. We also learned how to open up the top of the yurt–grateful to have learned firsthand about the mechanics of yurt life.

When I lived with nomads as part of my language immersion with the National University of Mongolia, I was astounded by all their hard work, including milking the horses every four hours. But all of the nomads I have spoken with say they prefer yurt life to city life–they enjoy the daily labor and rituals of rural life.

Such a joy to enjoy so much breathtaking nature (with no people in sight) while doing research this summer in Mongolia–archaeology included!

As we headed to Mongolia’s border with Russia and China (Siberia here we come), we knew we wouldn’t make it before nightfall. Navigating the bumpy road in the dark was no easy task–and I had to take an anti-nausea pill to not get car sick. We were all so relieved when we finally arrived at a yurt camp high on the mountain and could settle in.

After an instant noodle ramen dinner (I survived on those things the whole trip), we put on many layers and crawled under the covers. I had on about seven layers to stay warm–the stove helped a bit at first but only lasted a few hours.

When we woke up the next morning to make our final leg to the border, we could finally see with the daylight what our yurt actually looked like. We packed up our things and headed to the actual border with Russia and China–making our way to the sacred shrine on the top of the mountain.

As part of my research this summer, I had the opportunity to interview watermelon farmers in Mongolia.

It was not easy getting out to the watermelon fields from the car–there were so many mosquitos and they bit hard through our clothes!

My Mongolian colleagues and I were grateful for the opportunity to learn more about how watermelons are cultivated and how these practices relate to the wider community.

We also made sure to take some time to try the local watermelons–all in the name of research of course! It was a delicious, sweet break before we got back in the car and hit the road on our epic research journey.

I wore the purple jacket I bought this summer in Mongolia to meet with colleagues in China–feels like it was made for me, perfect fit!

My Mongolian team and I rolled out of bed in our yurt and onto the floor for a casual yurt breakfast. My Mongolian colleagues enjoyed the yak butter, while I stuck to Nutella and jelly.

Just as I was preparing my instant latte, a Kazakh musician stepped into our yurt and asked if he could play for us. Yurt breakfast with live Kazakh music–yes please! It was the perfect morning on the steppe…

While enjoying Naadam in western Mongolia, we were treated to a performance of Kazakh music on the steppe. We had the pleasure of watching the musicians unpack their instruments and set up.

My lens was attracted to the crowd as much as the performance. Once the horses races had concluded, the music performance began. Having studied Central Asian music at the Conservatory in Tajikistan, I was especially drawn to the dutar players. It was such a treat to experience Kazakh music with my Mongolian colleagues on this festive holiday in Mongolia.