Restoring an Alevi complex in Istanbul (Photo: Emily O’Dell)
Visiting with Bektashis in Turkey (Photo: Emily O’Dell)
In my last post about Sufism in Macedonia, I linked to an article about the Sufi followers of the medieval mystic Hajji Bektash Wali/Veli–whose order is found extensively throughout Albania, Kosovo and Macedonia.
The last time I was in Turkey, a Sufi took me to watch a “semah” performed by Bektashis in Istanbul. Semahs have been described by UNESCO as “a set of mystical and aesthetic body movements in rhythmic harmony” performed to the accompaniment of the “saz,” a long-necked lute.
While some consider them a secretive order, the people I met at the cemlevi (gathering house) were hospitable, welcoming and kind. What struck me most about the ceremony was the beauty of the songs that were sung (which reminded me of my Tajik music teacher strumming his dutar), and the sight of men and women dancing–and even whirling–together side-by-side (which would be considered heretical by some).
Not unlike the sema (whirling ceremony) of Rumi, the semah rituals of the Alevi-Bektashis are founded on the concept of seeking unity with the divine, and each movement within the ceremony is coded with spiritual meaning. To watch the whirling movements of the semah, tune into the video below around the 5:30 mark…
The condition of the common people is to injure one another. Therefore arrogance and jealousy, malevolence and meanness, as well as enmity can be always seen among them. This is the case with nearly all of them.
The second group is made of the ascetics. Their derivation is of fire and they are the People of the Path. Therefore, they have to burn night and day and burn themselves, for whoever incinerates himself in this world will be rescued from the large number of punishments awaiting in the hereafter. Hence, know that one who has burned once will never burn again.
After that, the third group is that of the Knowers. Their derivation is of water and they are the people of spiritual understanding (ma’rifat). As water is both pure and also purifying, a knower also should be both pure and purifying…
Water is pure and if it is poured into any jug, the jug holds the qualities of the water. Similarly, nothing accrues in the jug except the water itself. In addition, its color is apparent and it expels pollution. Likewise the purity of knowers is apparent, and it returns to its own source and accumulates…
— Hajji Bektash Veli
