
Nowruz time in Afghanistan (Photo: Emily O'Dell)

Mazar-e Sharif (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Did you hear that winter’s over? The basil
and the carnations cannot control their
laughter. The nightingale, back from his
wandering, has been made singing master
over the birds…
— Rumi
Coinciding with the Spring Equinox, Nowruz is being celebrated today around the world–in countries like Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, India, and Iraq. The customs of Persian New Year–rooted in the religious tradition of Zoroastrianism–include jumping over fire, and decorating a ceremonial table with symbolic and festive foods.
In my ten year travels on the Silk Road, I’ve celebrated Nowruz in Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. The photo above is from my Nowruz visit to Mazar-e Sharif–the “Noble Shrine”–in Afghanistan. Each year, hundreds of thousands of people journey to Mazar-e Sharif to celebrate this popular holiday. When I pulled into the city at night–past an image of Rumi chiseled into the highway wall–this turquoise shrine was shimmering under the small white lights strung above it like pearls. The day before, the police had arrested a number of Taliban fighters who had been planning to blow up the shrine. Similarly, today in Afghanistan, security forces have been on high alert–working overtime to ensure that today’s spring festival is celebrated in (relative) peace…