Photo by EOD
Photo by EOD
Though we’re all thinking these days about weapon attacks in Syria, I can’t stop thinking about all of the Sufis there. Since it’s really just a matter of days–or moments–before the decision on American intervention in Syria is made–I thought I’d share some of what I saw in Syria while I was there–since I’ve been reminiscing about lately anyway…
Most of my time in Syria was dedicated to visiting sacred “spaces” of Sufism–like Sufi shrines, cemeteries, hostels and schools. Though I’d set out with an itinerary–visit this saint, find that mosque–I kept running into whirling dervishes in the most unexpected places. Take, for instance, the photo to the left, which I took in the 18th century Azm Palace of Damascus, where one of the (breathtaking) rooms had these statues of whirling dervishes on display–to illustrate how Sufi philosophy and ritual has long been woven into the spiritual and artistic fabric of Syria. When most people think of Rumi, they don’t think of Syria–but they should, since the Mevlevi Sufi Order, which follows in his footsteps, has been active there for centuries–and still is today…
A number of Sufi orders are currently active in Syria–the Mevlevis, Naqshbandis, Qadiris–and more. In Damascus, I was very fortunate to spend time with a number of esteemed living and dead Sufi masters. Another vibrant and historic center of Sufism, of course, is Aleppo–and Sufis from Aleppo are still sharing their rich spiritual and musical traditions with devotees and audiences near and far. For example, I had the opportunity to see an ensemble from Aleppo perform and whirl in Cambridge–though sadly not all of the members of the ensemble could be present–since a number of their visas had been denied…
“We are not terrorists,” one of the musicians pleaded into the microphone–after receiving a standing ovation. “We are here for peace,” he said. The audience broke out into such a supportive and spirited applause that it made a number of those sitting around me weep. To get a taste of sema–the whirling ceremony of Rumi–here is a clip of Aleppo’s Al Kindi Ensemble performing and whirling in Fez…
One of the other reasons I was drawn to Syria was because in the past few years, Damascus has become a celebrated hub of Middle Eastern art–and I wanted to see the art on display at places like Ayyam Gallery for myself. The war in Syria hasn’t stopped Syrian artists from creating cutting edge art–in fact, some artists are incorporating bombed out buildings into their gripping and haunting installations.
When I walked through the dusty lanes of the Old City of Damascus–to go visit the Umayyad Mosque–I was struck by all of the paintings of whirling dervishes for sale in the bustling shops of the souq. Granted, these colorful dervishes were likely painted to cater to a tourist’s taste–but it was still delightful to see dervishes whirling in all directions, as I passed on my way to that awe-inspiring 8th century mosque–built on the remains of a Roman temple to Jupiter…
Photo by EOD
Photo by EOD
I snapped the photo to the left in Damascus at Tekkiye Suleymaniye–a medieval school for the whirling dervishes of Rumi’s Mevlevi Order. As I walked by these Ottoman dervish cells–each equipped with its own fireplace–I tried to imagine what life had been like for the dervishes who not only lived in those stone cells–but also worked in the soup kitchen and hospice across the courtyard–since hands-on service and charity have always been one of the hallmarks of Sufism…
***
Little did I know when I moved to Lebanon that my foray into Syrian Sufism hadn’t ended in Damascus. Earlier this year, when I was teaching a whirling workshop in Beirut, an older woman walked through the door–whom I’d never seen before. But, of course, everyone–known or unknown–is welcome.
“I am from Syria,” she said, “and I am a Sufi.” She explained, through tears, how she had been forced to flee across the border from the violence.
And though she was older than all of us by decades, when the Sufi music started–she began to whirl with the speed, delight and openness of a child–seeming not to have a care in the world, seeming only to be living for love…
Photo by EOD
