Arg-e Karim Khan…

Arg-e Karim Khan–the 18th century citadel in Shiraz built by the founder of the Zand Dynasty–is one of my favorite places in Iran. Above the entrance, a dramatic scene from the Shahnameh (Ferdowsi‘s epic masterpiece) depicts Rustam’s victory over the White Demon–whose blood Rustam uses to restore the sight of Kay-Kavus, the captured and tortured king…

Kavus, you’re like a willow, fruitless and afraid.
And you once thought your army could invade
Mazandaran, and that your strength is like
A maddened mammoth’s when you choose to strike!
Since you have occupied the Persian throne,
Wisdom’s deserted you, good sense has flown.
Here is the end of everything you sought,
Here is the punishment for which you fought!

— The White Demon, Shahnameh