Going Underground…

Photo by Robert O’Dell

I’ve been spending a lot of time underground lately. Several days ago, my family and I went to Château Ksara, a renowned winery in the Bekaa Valley–which prides itself on being the oldest, largest and most toured winery in Lebanon. The winery is also connected to the Christian history of Lebanon, as it was founded in 1857 by Jesuit priests. Around 70,000 people a year visit the winery to tour its vineyards and its Roman caves–where the wine bottles and barrels are stored. Still tucked away in the crannies of the caves are some of the original wine vessels from when the winery was created. Ksara is just one of over thirty wine estates in Lebanon…

Emily O’Dell at Château Ksara in Lebanon

Anyone who has been to Lebanon has witnessed its natural beauty above ground…

Photo by Robert O’Dell

and on the sea…

Photo by Robert O’Dell

…but a surprise many tourists find when they get here is how much there is to explore underground. As an archaeologist, I’ve always been most drawn to what’s underneath us–what’s hidden from every day view. So when I went to the Hezbollah Museum for my birthday and research, I was pleased to find that a number of original tunnels dug by hand by Hezbollah composed a significant part of the museum exhibit.

Emily O’Dell at the entrance of a Hezbollah tunnel at the Mleeta Museum

While hiking through the beautiful hills of places like Jezzine is a must-do when visiting Lebanon, walking through the caverns of Jeita Grotto–or catching a concert there if you’re lucky enough–is another “not-to-be-missed” experience. When I was there last week, it felt like we were walking through an underground natural cathedral.

While these subterranean spaces provide a welcome opportunity to combine physical activity with sight-seeing, they are also intimately connected to the history of war. For instance, Château Ksara showed resilience in staying open during the civil war (despite heavy losses), and the Hezbollah Museum documents a number of different conflicts. And the bewitching Jeita Grotto–which today is a major tourist attraction–was used as an ammunition store in the civil war–not unlike how many caves are currently being used in Syria–right next door…

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