Visiting the shrine of Hafiz in Iran (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Shrine of Saadi in Shiraz, Iran (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
Fools laud and magnify the mosque,
while they strive to oppress holy men of heart.
But the former is mere form, the latter spirit and truth…
— Rumi
Sufism in Iran has a long and complex history. Currently, Sufis in Iran are suffering various forms of persecution. In the midst of this conflict between the clergy and the Sufis–between the exoteric and esoteric aspects of Islam–some Sufis have been imprisoned, and their places of worship have been razed. This recent article, “The Sufi Challenge to Iran’s Clergy,” explains some of the pressures that Sufis in Iran currently face–but it also leaves out some important details about Sufi “space” in Iran.
For instance, when I was surveying Sufism in Iran, I was able to visit the shrines of poets and Sufis like Hafiz and Saadi without any problems or interference. Gathered around each tomb were crowds of Iranians reading Sufi poetry in Persian, and praying at the side of these great mystic masters. The contemporary practice of Sufism in Iran is much more complicated than meets the eye–but perhaps the only way to understand how it all works is to travel to Iran sometime soon, and see it for yourself…
They closed the tavern door; O’Lord, do not permit.
That they open the door of shame and deceit…
— Hafiz
Exploring Menar-e-Jomban in Isfehan, Iran (Photo: Emily O'Dell)
